Historia Magazine

The magazine of the Historical Writers Association

  • Features
  • Interviews
  • Reviews
    • New Books
    • TV, Film and Theatre
    • One From The Vaults
  • Latest Releases
  • Columns
    • Doctor Darwin’s Writing Tips
    • Watching History
    • Desert Island Books
  • Awards
  • Events
  • Contact
  • Historia in your inbox

A Brief History of Underwear

26 May 2016 By Imogen Robertson

undressed V&A

Imogen Robertson reviews Undressed, the latest hot ticket at the V&A.

When I was a child, my mother discovered that no matter the size of strop I’d managed to get myself into, if she said the word ‘knickers’ enough in a very serious voice, I’d crack and start giggling.

I have a nasty feeling it would still work, so finding the right tone for a review of an exhibition on underwear is a bit of a struggle. I shall try to remember I’m now a grown up and writing in a grown up manner and not just shout ‘pants’ hysterically at the internet.

The tone of the exhibition itself veers between the serious and the arch and is designed very cleverly to make you think as well as snigger. It’s in the Fashion Temporary Exhibition Space in the glorious V&A and arranged on two levels. On the ground floor, undercover as it were, are the strange underpinnings of fashion in use since the 18th century – a bewildering array of stays, corsets, cages, Spanx, girdles and the Bodymax range for men. On the upper story, on display under catwalk and red-carpet style lighting is an eclectic collection of underwear as outerwear. Here is the lingerie, or the high fashion clothes designed to look like lingerie from Agent Provocateur, Jean Paul Gaultier and Vivian Westwood among others.

I take to high fashion like a cat to water, but even an anti-fashionista like myself can appreciate the wit and flair on display, and enjoy the discussion of semi-public, semi-private dressing that runs through the display of kaftans and housecoats, silk dressing gowns and hotpants. Video screens also show some of the clothes being worn and designers and makers discussing their creations.

It’s the downstairs I really enjoyed though. As well as being an eye-opening examination of what people have gone through to create a perfect silhouette, it also offers a commentary on changing mores without being preachy or loosing its sense of fun. You can see x-rays showing the effects of tight lacing, peer at 3-D satires of crinoline wearers, or cheer on the rise of corsets for cyclists. There are other treasures. George Bernard Shaw in his Jaeger woollens, my first sight of actual red flannel, and the plaster fig leaf that was used to protect the modesty of the V&A’s cast of David during Royal visits. The unusual survival of a set of handmade stays from Whitby had one of my fellow visitors whistling through her teeth ‘Bloody hell, it’d be like sewing your own coffin.’ Certainly illuminating.

Corset_1890-1895_c_Victoria_and_Albert_Museum_LondonMy personal highlight was discovering that my mum was not the first person to work out underwear can lighten the mood. In 1940 while living in Baghdad, Lady Betty Holman found that showing local ladies her knickers, trimmed and patterned with lace hunting scenes was a wonderful ice-breaker. Apparently they ‘got on very well after that.’

So for the fan of high fashion or the historical researcher, the exhibition offers a great deal in a small space. It’s all very well understanding your characters by walking a mile in their metaphorical shoes, but I suspect we’d all learn a lot more from trying to do so in their corsets.

Undressed: A Brief History of Underwear

On now until Sunday, 12 March 2017.

Victoria and Albert Museum

 

Imogen Robertson writes historical novels and is Chair of the Historical Writer’s Association. Her latest book, Theft of Life, is out now.

Photos:

  1. Corset, cotton and whalebone, 1890, Victoria and Albert Museum, London
  2. Exhibition space, Victoria and Albert Museum, London
  3. Silk satin, lace and whalebone corset, 1890-5, Victoria and Albert Museum, London

 

Share this article:Share on Facebook
Facebook
Tweet about this on Twitter
Twitter
Email this to someone
email

Filed Under: Features Tagged With: exhibition, Imogen Robertson, review, underwear, Undressed, V&A, Victoria and Albert Museum

Search

Latest Releases

Widows of the Ice by Anne Fletcher

15 May 2022

Privilege by Guinevere Glasfurd

12 May 2022

The Fallen Sword by AJ Mackenzie

12 May 2022

See more new releases

Let’s stay in touch

Sign up for our monthly email newsletter:

Or follow us on social media:

Follow us on Twitter Follow us on Facebook

Editor’s Picks

Building better humans? Eugenics and history

1 September 2021

Historia Q&A: Rachel Hore

3 April 2018

Historia Interviews: Tom Williams and Paul Fraser Collard

13 December 2016

Popular Topics

16th century 17th century 18th century 19th century 20th century 2020 Ancient Rome Andrew Taylor Anglo-Saxons author interview biography book review Catherine Hokin ebook Emma Darwin Giveaway historical crime historical fiction history HWA HWA Crown Awards HWA Debut Crown Award HWA Non-Fiction Crown interview Katherine Clements London Matthew Harffy medieval new release paperback research review Second World War Shortlist short stories the writing life Tudors TV drama TV review Vikings writer's life writing writing advice writing tips WWII

The Historical Writers’ Association

Historia Magazine is published by the Historical Writers’ Association. We are authors, publishers and agents of historical writing, both fiction and non-fiction. For information about membership and profiles of our member authors, please visit our website.

Read more about Historia or find out about advertising and promotional opportunities.

ISSN 2515-2254

Recent Additions

  • Widows of the Ice by Anne Fletcher
  • Privilege by Guinevere Glasfurd
  • The Fallen Sword by AJ Mackenzie

Search Historia

Contact us

If you would like to contact the editor of Historia, please email editor@historiamag.com.

Copyright © 2014–2022 The Historical Writers Association